Kipling Slept Here
07/08/09
Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren't no Ten Commandments an' a man can raise a thirst;
For the temple-bells are callin', an' it's there that I would be --
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea;
R. Kipling -- Road to Mandalay
Finally. Arrival in Rangoon, the former capital of Burma-Myanmar. The capital was moved upstream some years ago by the military regime It didn't want people to associate the "new" government with the colonial past, or the old government buildings. The trip from the airport was through "modern Asian", a mix of old and new, with ongoing constructiona and abandoned works. Street vendors placed along the road, and traffic is moderate, but moves along without too much trouble.
07/08/09
Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren't no Ten Commandments an' a man can raise a thirst;
For the temple-bells are callin', an' it's there that I would be --
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea;
R. Kipling -- Road to Mandalay
Finally. Arrival in Rangoon, the former capital of Burma-Myanmar. The capital was moved upstream some years ago by the military regime It didn't want people to associate the "new" government with the colonial past, or the old government buildings. The trip from the airport was through "modern Asian", a mix of old and new, with ongoing constructiona and abandoned works. Street vendors placed along the road, and traffic is moderate, but moves along without too much trouble.
The first impression is that of a city gone to seed. Everywhere one looks, there is what I euphamistially call "defered maintenance." Beautiful old colonial buildings that were expropriated by the military government are now abanoned to their fates, which is the slow decay in the brutal climate. Many are already being shredded by plants, there is black mold growing over everything.
Looking past the decay, what's under has a certain charm. You have the feel of returning to the high days of the British Empire. Ignoring the modern upgrades, which seemed to stop in the 80's (1980, but it could have easily been 1880 if you ignore the cars) you begin to feel the heat, mugginess, and the oncoming monsoon rain. It's cloudy and damp, but the undercurrent of excitement grabs you. You expect the butler to arrive with a gin and tonic.
We've been upgraded to the Strand, a hotel with a history that spans the later British Empire. Kipling slep here. Sir Michael "Mick" (Jagger). So did Oliver Stone for what that's worth. A hundred years from now we'll know who has more staying power.
Our room is a spacious suite, with high ceilings, and period furniture. It overlooks the Strand and the Yangon river and shipping are through the front French doors. We have a balcony, but unfortunately we're finding why monsoon season isn't exactly the best time to plan your outings.
After settling in, we take a drive to see the old colonial buildings of Rangoon. Many are fine architectural specimens, but sadly need work. This place could be a "paris", but the work load necessary to just to stop the decay boggles the mind. The town is a busy one, but traffic is mild by most any standard. The day is taking on a gloomy pre monsoon look.
A light rain begins to fall. We first at the religious articles market and manufacturing area surrounding the Shwedgon Pagoda.
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